Avignon
June 8th, 2008
I think this might be the last time I update this blog from France.
So let's make it good, I guess is the moral of the story..
I'm sitting in my room at 34 Avenue de la Trillade, Avignon, France. The four white walls, two chairs, one desk, one bed, one window, and three decorative rugs that no longer bear that terrifying unfamiliarity they had on my first day here. In the two and a half months I've spent here, they have become familiar to me, so that even closing my eyes I can envision them.
My one window is propped open for light and air, and outside I can hear the telltale hiss of the Mistral whispering through the leaves. For most of this morning that sound has been the only sound, and then it began to remind me that I'm going to be in the air myself in a few days, and then I turned my own music on—nothing evasive, mostly slow and quiet stuff. The Mistral accompanies it, calling me like home starts to call me.
Every now and then I stop to wonder if I should even be inside right now. I wonder if I should get up, get out, just walk. Walk around the city, take in those sights that will be lost to me in a short four days' time. I wonder if I should go to my kebab on the corner and order a steak-frites from the vendor who wears thick glasses and tells me “grazi.” I toy with climbing to the top of the Palais and watching the Rhone. And invariably I decide that right now, I'd rather be here, cross-legged on my bed, listening to my music, the Mistral, and taking some time to just contemplate where I am. Six hours until dinner. I can afford to use one of them writing down a few of the thoughts that have been swirling nonstop through my head since I passed the one week mark.
Because while the Mistral and the gorgeous blue sky are outside calling me, I look around my room and have no choice but to face the reminders of the week to come.
I've taken my suitcases out of the closet where I stowed them away two months ago. I peeled the baggage check labels from March off the handles, and started to pack. The smaller suitcase is almost full now—the lid is stuffed as full as it can get without bursting the seams, and the larger part is nearly full of souvenirs, presents that I continually pray to the powers that be are adequate. My swimsuit, some other clothes I know I'm not going to wear again in the next four days. The larger suitcase is the bigger intimidation—almost completely empty, it lies open against the wall and looking at it reminds me that I'm going to have to try to stuff the rest of my life in France into that unassuming piece of cloth and plastic.
My desk chair, the one that has never moved since I arrived, now serves at coat rack for the outfit I'm flying home in. I went ahead and decided, so that I could put those clothes aside: pants, tank top, t-shirt, collared shirt, blazer—the idea's to wear as much home as I can wear without looking too much like a freak.
On top of the desk are three piles. One of stuff that'll only be of use to me once I've left Avignon—my American cell phone, my American money, little pieces of my life back home that were useless over here. Counting out the US currency was surreal in its unfamiliarity. The sizes of the bills and the coins seemed all wrong. The bills were all the same color, and a quarter feels freakishly light. The other pile is of things I need to finish classes: four books, one French-English dictionary, all of which will be put in the suitcases by Monday night. The third is what I won't be bringing back to the US at all—the booklets, box, and charger to my program cell phone. The phone itself is out of minutes and I'm trying to make it the rest of the trip without buying any. It'll be a nice alarm clock until I turn it in on Wednesday.
All that being said, the rest of my earthly possessions in France are either in my closet or piled on my bed. Looking around this room there is no mistaking an eminent departure. And that is both thrill and fear for me. Just like the passport I had to take back out, like the reservation codes and flight numbers I have neatly written out beside it. Thrill and fear, tempered with a heartbreak I never in a million years expected to feel.
“Once we get to the one week mark, I'm sure I'll be totally ready to come home.”
How many times did I say it, each time trusting its truth implicitly? I always figured that by this point in the program, home would be calling me so strongly that I would actually want to leave sooner. Point blank, I thought that by now I'd want to leave...and I don't. Not completely, and not yet. And while it's true that an enormous part of me is already aching for home, a part of me is devastated that the final goodbye is so close.
I have changed on this trip. I figured I would, but not as drastically as I feel like I've changed. I feel independent, and I feel like I know myself. “We talked about you last night,” Cat told me, “Talked about how much you've changed here.” And not all of us can say that. There are people here who say they haven't changed a bit. There are people who called this quarter a waste of their time. There are even people who claim their French has gotten worse. But I can feel it—I can feel that I'm different.
And this trip hasn't been perfect. Let me pause to assure you of that. As in any kind of life, a life abroad has ups and downs, has enormous highs and the lowest of lows. On this trip I've felt despair that practically had me non-functional. I've felt anger the likes of which has made me want to strangle something. But that's not what this journey has been about. It's like I've found a part of myself that was hiding over here all along.
When I look at my passport, it reminds me that re-entry is coming. If France has made me what I am right now, can the changes even survive the US? Will I go back to my old life and lose everything I've gained? Will that part of me I found here stay behind?
Every moment now feels like the end of something. My final Friday and Saturday are already gone, I have four lunches and four dinners left, only four nights to wander the city at night with my friends. That's why I've started packing. Now that I can hear the countdown clock ticking at every moment, I want the bags packed. I want the homework done. I want every last minute with my friends in France that I can manage. Going home last night at 1:30 in the morning felt like a loss, because the others stayed out later. How can I spend any of my precious remaining time doing something as menial as packing?
I guess that's why I'm still thinking that I should be out walking instead of sitting here writing. But maybe at least if I can say some of the stuff I'm thinking, then I won't have to let it bug me anymore. Maybe if I can just spend a quick half-hour wallowing in the fear, I won't feel obliged to deny it.
I am a compulsive, self-critical, anxious person. That much won't change. For the next for days there will always be that little voice inside reminding me of the passing time. But I will not spend the last four days in Avignon bracing myself for the end.
And in five days, I'll be home. No matter how afraid I am of losing this experience, being home is a thrill that counters the anxiety blow for blow. I'm going to see my family. I'm going to see their faces and for the first time in two months, they won't be the frozen smiles in my handful of photographs. I'm going to play with my dogs. I'm going to talk to Sam, whose voice I've barely heard since leaving. I'm going to have a house I can sing in, a house I can live in like I belong there. I'm going to eat dinners I choose, I'll have ranch dressing and co-jack cheese and ohmigawd Cooler Ranch Doritos and ohmigawd popcorn. Peanut butter hasn't been that big of a deal for me, but MAN do I want some popcorn. I'm going to have a showerhead that attaches to a wall. From pretty details like food all the way up to the immense joy of hugging my Mom and Dad for the first time since March, everything about home is calling to me. It's the high to counter the low that is leaving.
I have made real, true friends here. They have changed me, they've showed me myself as they see me, they've made this experience what it is and has been. They will be my classmates next quarter, although I wonder if we'll ever be this close again. They will forever be happy memories of the people who helped change my life. Leaving that will be difficult to say the least. But then I picture myself running through the airport into my family's arms, and I realize that I'm just in a four-day state of limbo. No, not the “how low can you go” kind of limbo. I just mean someplace sullen, someplace where all I can do is reflect, and take it day by day, and hope I have more than just suitcases to take home from three months of living in France.
I can't stay inside anymore. I'm getting my shoes and I'm going for a walk.
I expect I'll write once or twice once I'm home. After all, the end of this journey is nothing if not a new beginning, a new launch point, a new pond to jump in. I've got my toes on the edge of dry land, and in four short days I'm going to take a flying leap.
I love you and miss you all, more than ever before.
-GUniversite d'Avignon et des Pays de Vaucluse
June 10th
1:45 pm
This is the final post from France. I'll see you at home.
Thank you for letting me share this adventure with you.
I'm deeply grateful.
Love you, miss you.
I'm coming, guys, I'm coming,
G
